Men’s suits can be traced back to the 17th century, when King Charles II imposed his power through a strict dress code in the courts. Edwardians developed the lounge suit in the 1900s, preceding 1920s Gatsby gents who went elaborately Dandy with wide-legged trousers, pastels and statement checks.
The ’40s saw pant waists rise and smoking jackets slink in, before WWII dispelled all sense of luxury, as clothing rations lent their utilitarian effect to suits in the ’50s.
But it was the ’60s that saw today’s modern suit emerge: those Italian maestros of needle and thread who saw the importance of tailoring a flawlessly fitting suit for men.
Suits are an investment piece, and warrant much planning when buying off the rack. The most important quality is a jacket that has a full canvas. A canvassed jacket has layers of material (wool, horsehair or camel) that sit between the outer fabric and the inner lining of a suit jacket. The style holds its shape after multiple wears and drapes against the body.
The second option is a half-canvas, where the tailor canvasses in the more visible top portion of the jacket for superior drape, cutting costs compared to the full canvas. Alternatively, cheaper suits have a lining that is fused to the fabric, which involves little support and a standard drape. Pinching the layers of fabric between the button holes will uncover if the jacket is canvassed.
